Corton: The Covered Flame (In Which I Disagree With Mr. Bruni)

“Are both the beef and the lamb done sous vide?” I asked the server as he assembled our main courses in front of us.
“Yes.  The kitchen has no open flame!” he exclaimed with what sounded like pride.
Well… that’s interesting.  Is that something to be proud of?  Or simply the staff putting a brave face and [...]

Co. Pizza: Tradition in Modernist Clothing

I got the chance to finally eat at Co. Pizza last night.  Jim Lahey of Sullivan Street Bakery fame had opened Co. relatively recently but I had not yet been.  But an old college friend was in town.  Out-of-towners tend to eat earlier than we do.   Restaurants with no reservations tend to have shorter waits for tables the earlier [...]

Motorino: Spoiled For Choice

The pizza quest continues!  Aunt and uncle were in town so we took the opportunity to drag them to Williamsburg (and who doesn’t love to take their relatives to Brooklyn?) to try out Motorino.  After Frank Bruni’s extensive pizza article in the New York Times, I have felt compelled to try them all.  So Motorino [...]

Veloce Pizzeria – A Pie Grandma Would Be Proud of

I flipped when I first tasted the Porchetta sandwhiches at the tiny East Village spot of the same name.  Fennel pollen and slow roasted pork – so good!  I only wished that Porchetta was bigger and offered more of chef Sara Jenkins’ reinvented and well executed food.  So I was excited to find out that she had [...]